At the age of 36, Applegate was diagnosed with having the BRCA1 breast cancer gene after finding lumps in one of her breasts. A month after her diagnosis she underwent a double mastectomy to prick all the cancer out and prevent it from coming back. According to her interview with ABC’s Robin Roberts (another famous breast cancer survivor) she felt the double mastectomy was her only logical choice of treatment despite the cancer only being found in one breast. Applegate said in the interview, “My decision, after looking at all the treatment plans that were possibilities for me, the only one that seemed the most logical and the one that was going to work for me was to have a bilateral mastectomy.”

She then underwent 8 months of breast reconstruction surgery. Before her breast cancer diagnosis she was a staunch supporter of breast cancer research and fought to raise awareness about the disease because of her mother’s long fight with the disease. Applegate’s mother is also a breast cancer survivor. The young celebrity has become even more embroiled in the fight against breast cancer by starting her own foundation.

The test that discovered Christina’s breast cancer was a special MRI machine that can detect cancerous cells before a tumor is formed. This form of breast cancer testing is expensive and so it the testing to win out if you have the BRCA1 breast cancer gene. In an pains to wait on women survive and fight against this cancer the foundation raises money to help women who are at high-risk pay for these tests that often are not covered by regular medical insurance.

Applegate’s foundation is called Right Action for Women- Christina Applegate Foundation. She participated in Lee National Denim Day on October 8, 2010 and has appeared on the Stand Up to Cancer telethon. Her activism and charity work go far beyond just raising awareness about breast cancer. Her other charity work includes support of A Day Made Better, Spirit of Women Health Network, Adopt-a-Classroom, and World Society for the Protection of Animals.

Other celebrities who have joined Christina Applegate in surviving breast cancer include Robin Roberts, Olivia Newton-John, Jaclyn Smith, Kylie Minogue, Sheryl Crow, Suzanne Somers, Melissa Etheridge, and Edie Falco.

Sources:
ABC Interview with Christina Applegate
Right Action for Women
Lee National Denim Day

Leasing or financing a recent vehicle is an exciting endeavor for any individual. There’s nothing worse than being without wheels, and owning your own car can make life much easier for running errands, going to work and visiting friends. Although the bank might still own a major fragment of the car – in fact, you might not “believe” so much as the tires – you’ve still got transportation, and that’s what counts.

Most financial institutions require that you capture full insurance coverage for your vehicle – at least for the first six months of financing. What they don’t require is gap insurance; in fact, you might not even know what gap insurance is. But if you think that a standard insurance policy will hide you for any possible accident, then you might find yourself in a sticky situation.

Gap insurance is very mighty what the name implies. When you finance a new vehicle, the value of the car depreciates as soon as you drive it off the lot, and continues to decrease in value at an astranomical rate. You can’t do anything to avoid the depreciation of your car, but you can do something to ensure that it doesn’t leave you swamped in debt.

Let’s say that you purchase a $20,000 car for a 60-month lease. That means that you’ll be paying off the car – and the accrued interest – for the next five years. You catch an insurance policy for the car, which covers liability, collision and uninsured motorists. You feel safe and comfortable in your new purchase.

But let’s say that three months into the lease, your car is stolen from a parking lot. You leave the mall only to find that your transportation home has been removed from the premesis. You call the police, file a report, and hope that your car will be found, but it isn’t. You call your insurance company, file a claim, and find that they are only willing to pay for the value of the car at the time it was stolen, which is only $15,000. Unfortunately, the financial institution that gave you an automobile loan is going to want you to pay everything you owe on the car, which totals $22,000 with interest.

Unless you have seven thousand dollars stashed away under your mattress, you’re in a heap of trouble. You’ll have to live in a studio apartment with no electricity and – gasp! – no cable until you can pay it off. But if you had gap insurance, there wouldn’t be a problem

Gap insurance covers the “gap” between the amount owed to your financial institution and the amount payable by your insurance company. 

Some lease companies include gap coverage in their contract, which is a money-saver for you. When you’re shopping around for cars, read the lease agreements carefully to find out of gap coverage is included or if it is mandated by the financial institution. In some cases, you are required to obtain coverage from your insurance company, but even if you aren’t, it’s a good idea to check into it. It can save you a heap of money in the long run, and can keep you watching cable channels for the entire duration of your lease.

In the terms and conditions for your normal insurance policy, you will behold a clause that reads something like this:

“In the event of a total loss, the policy holder will receive the actual cash value of the vehicle, minus any deductible”

The key words in this phrase are actual cash value. A gap insurance policy works like a “rider” on your home owners’ insurance policy or other types of insurance. For example, if you have expensive antiques in your home, you might pay an extra $5.00 per month to insure the antiques in the event of fire or theft. A gap insurance policy works the same way.

The only time when a gap insurance policy might not be needed is if you effect a titanic amount of money down on your vehicle. For example, if you assign 50% down, you probably won’t need gap insurance until you are almost through with your payments. Most insurance companies allow you to purchase gap insurance at any point during your lease term, so you can buy a gap insurance policy later if you feel it is necessary.

If your insurance company won’t cover a gap insurance policy, visit Gap Insurance Loss Protection. They’ll insure nearly anyone who is currently leasing a vehicle – regardless of the point you have reached in your lease. Most policies cost less than $5.00 per month, which is a minimal expense for covering your investment.

ALL WRITE INSURANCE

All Write Insurance, located at 2413 20th Street, offers a full line of auto insurance policies for any problem you may have. They offer big discounts for good drivers.

All Write Insurance can be contacted at (806) 763-2886 for a free quote or for more information.

AUTO PARTNERS INSURANCE

Auto Partners Insurance, located at 1711 34th Street, offers auto insurance for all cars and all drivers with no down payment. They also offer many discounts, immediate coverage and Mexico Insurance.

Hours of operation are Monday through Friday 9am-6pm and Saturday 9am-1pm.

Auto Partners Insurance can be contacted at (806) 749-7200 for more information.

BUTLER-CARSON INSURANCE

Butler-Carson Insurance, located at 4505 82nd Street, Suite #10, has three agents with over 70 years combined experience. They have been in the Lubbock site since 1956.

They offer personal insurance which includes homes, auto and specialty autos, motorcycles, boats and personal watercraft, recreational vehicles, mobile homes and health insurance. They also offer business insurance which includes commercial property, general liability, business auto, workers compensation, professional liability and group life and health.

Butler-Carson Insurance can be contacted at (806) 798-7979 for a quote or for more information.

FRED LOYA INSURANCE

Fred Loya Insurance, located at 106 North University, has been auto insurance specialists since 1974.

They offer many discounts including 20% multi car, 20% prior insurance, 10% renewal, 10% home owner and 10% preferred rates.

Options include monthly policies, semi-annual policies, SR-22′s and immediate coverage.

Hours of operation are Monday through Friday 9am-7pm and Saturday 9am-2pm.

Fred Loya Insurance can be contacted at (806) 744-2500 for more information.

SANDFORD INSURANCE AGENCY

Sanford Insurance Agency, located at 6303 Indiana, has been doing business since 1935. They provide insurance for auto, home, business, life and health. They provide all insurance lines of business, from small client risks to jumbo accounts.

They have a specialty department for contractors, medical malpractice and oil and gas.

Sanford Insurance Agency can be contacted at (806) 792-5564 for more information.

SHORT INSURANCE

Short Insurance, located at 2415 20th Street, offers auto, home, motorcycle and commercial and business insurance. They are an independent insurance agent.

Short Insurance can be contacted at (806) 744-0125 for a quote or for more information.

TEXAS STATE LOW COST INSURANCE INC.

Texas State Low Cost Insurance Inc., located at 2406 34th Street, has been serving Texans for 27 years. They provide auto and home insurance.

They offer monthly or 6-month policies, low down/low monthly payments, motorcycle, sr-22 (same day), discounts available and I.D. Cards. They insure all cars and all drivers.

Hours of operation are Monday through Friday 9am to 5:30pm and Saturday 9am to 1:00pm.

Texas Status Low Cost Insurance Inc. can be contacted at (806) 792-5555 for more information.

TEXAS WEST INSURANCE AGENCY

Texas West Insurance Agency, located at 2138 19th Street, offer truck, watercraft and automotive insurance.

They offer same day coverage and preferred rates for preferred drivers. They are Truck Insurance Specialists.

Hours of operation are Monday through Friday 8:30am to 5:30pm.

Texas West Insurance Agency can be contacted at (806) 763-3300 for more information.

Granted, there are $0 down payment lease offers out there at the moment on some new cars but that doesn’t recall into sage fixed fees like security deposits and acquisition costs. But there is an alternative.

Did you know that at any time during a lease the lessee can have another person take over payments? While most manufacturers charge a small transfer fee you can always try and get the initial lessee to pay that cost. (Transfer fees vary widely—Mercedes and Land Rover seem to charge the most while Ford Motor Company/Mazda vehicles only require a $75 transfer fee.)

Usually there is just one simple form to fill out for the manufacturer’s leasing arm and then presto! The unique owner just keeps paying your monthly lease payment each month until the vehicle needs to be returned.

Finding the Best Lease to Assume—The quickest way to find the best lease assumption deal for you is to turn to the internet. Sites like Leasetrader.com, Swapalease.com and Leasetrade.com all have thousands of listings made by various private parties looking to offload their lease. There are also other sites but most of them work by having the people who advertise on the site pay while “lease assumers” (meaning you) enjoy the benefits at no cost.

Luxury cars are heavily represented in the listings as many of these lessees have either lost their jobs or unbiased can’t afford the payments anymore. If you feel like this is “taking advantage” of someone else’s effort, imagine how unfortunate it will be to this other person’s credit rating when their car, truck or SUV gets repossessed. In fact, if you recall someone else’s lease you are really doing what amounts to a public service.

What You Need to Know—For example, ads displayed on LeaseTrader.com note all the information you need to know to understand what you are getting into. For example, it lists how many months are left on the lease, the dependable monthly payment, which firm the lease is through (manufacturer leasing companies are the safest bets), the exact option specification, accident history, maintenance history, cost to engage the vehicle at the end of the lease, photos and where the vehicle is located.

Many people also consume lease assumption sites like this to look for a new car when they are moving. But if you aren’t going anywhere anytime soon these websites allow you to search for vehicles in your local area. For example, if you want to assume a lease on a Mercedes ML350 SUV and live in Denver you probably don’t want to look at one that is located in Delaware. Before starting your search, decide how far it is you are willing to drive to pick up the vehicle you intend to lease.

Don’t Be Stupid—These websites are meant to connect you with individuals looking to offload their leased vehicles but none claim to have any proof that these people are in any way honest. If it sounds too good to be true it probably is. And as always, don’t pick up the vehicle until all of the paperwork has gone through with the leasing company. You don’t want to be driving around in a vehicle that is still under someone else’s name.

When you assume a lease realize you will then be liable for any pain that the previous lessee did to the vehicle. Make sure all bodywork repairs are complete before assuming any lease. Also check that the tires are not bald because when you turn a leased car in with bald tires the leasing company will charge you (and not the previous lessee) for new ones. Also look out for windshield cracks, burns in carpet and seats, scrapes on alloy wheels and ask for proof of all servicing.

Lastly, never lease a car that is already over the mileage limits. Usually leases give you 12-15k drivable miles a year. Depending on the contract you can pay anywhere from a penny to ten cents for every mile over that predetermined mileage limit when you turn in the car. Sometimes you can come by that huge bill waived if you lease a unique car from the same automaker at the time of lease return but that is not guaranteed.

Would This Work For Me? —When you attempt to assume a lease do realize that if you have a credit gain equivalent to your age that most leasing companies will probably turn you down. You don’t have to have perfect credit, however, as many lease companies see lease assumption as a way to still obtain paid on a previous contract. When a lease company has to repossess a car they always lose money so lease assumption is their preferred route.

When you “rob” a lease you are leasing what is now essentially a “used” car. Even so, these vehicles are dazzling new and should probably quiet be under warranty. In addition to the monthly payment you must remember that even leased cars must be regularly serviced per manufacturer’s requirements. So before you lease, say, a Range Rover at a super-low rate be sure that you can afford to maintain this vehicle. Websites like Edmunds.com and Automotive.com all offer “real cost of ownership” listings (including service costs) for various models on their websites.

Which One Should I Pick? —Part of the fun of lease assumption is the fact that people who win “bored quickly” with their cars have a way to inexpensively feed their automotive addiction. It is also quite a bit of fun to be able to see what sort of lease deals people are signing. On Leasetrader.com there was a 2007 Mercedes ML350 that was $970/month while most other ML350 leases (equipped in a nearly identical fashion) on the place were closer to $550/month. Someone got ripped off.

But lease assumption really works best when an keen party knows exactly the car he or she wants. That way you can tell the search engines on these websites to look for an Audi A4 sedan and then all you have to do is check the listings for the best lease assumption deal. Finding the best deal on a lease has never been easier or more fun.

Sample Prices from the Internet:

2007 BMW 335i—($467.96/14 months)—(20K Miles Left on Lease)—Seller paying lease transfer fee

2008 Mercedes C350—($500/23 months)—(31K Miles Remaining)–$595 lease transfer fee

2008 Audi A4 2.0T—($341.53/20 months)—(19K Miles Remaining)–$100 transfer fee

2007 Lexus IS350—($485/36 months)—(33K Miles Remaining)–$200 transfer fee

2007 Infiniti G35 Coupe—($375/15 months)—(18K Miles Remaining)—No transfer fee

2009 Acura TSX—($399/23 months)—(29K Miles Remaining)—No transfer fee

2006 Range Rover Sport HSE—($664/29 months)—(30K Miles Remaining)—$650 transfer fee

2008 Volvo S40 Sedan—($328/39 months)—(34K Miles Remaining)—$650 transfer fee

2008 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited—($358/27 months)—(27K Miles Remaining)— $300 transfer fee

2008 Honda Civic—($258/23 months)—(27K Miles Remaining)—No transfer fee

2008 Toyota Yaris Hatchback—($215/45 months)—(48K Miles Remaining)–$50 transfer fee

2008 Mazda3 s Hatchback—($292/24 months)—(24K Miles Remaining)–$75 transfer fee

2007 GMC Yukon Denali—($499/14 months)—(15K Miles Remaining)–$595 transfer fee

2008 Ford Mustang GT—($341/12 months)—(14K Miles Remaining)–$75 transfer fee

Sources:

Leasetrade.com

Swapalease.com

Leasetrader.com

Edmunds.com

Automotive.com

Companies that Specialize in Dinky Business Health Insurance

There are an improbable number of insurance companies ready to serve the need- of small businesses. Selecting from among them may seem like hard work, but overall, it’s important to go with a company with a track record and long-term reliability. There’s no sense in spending the next five-to-ten years switching from one insurance company to another. By doing your homework, you can hopefully eliminate this quandary. Hiring a ample accountant can actually save you a lot of time in finding the right insurance packages for your small business. Still, it’s important to be informed.

The Rising Cost of Health Care

Many people are discouraged from starting their own small businesses because of the rising cost of health care. In fact, the cost of healthcare in 2005 increased by abut 10% nationwide, according to the National Business Group on Health. Apparently these costs have increased for the last five or six years, making it tough for small businesses to discontinue afloat.

With rising costs, slight businesses need to consider alternatives like Cafeteria plans, co-pays, employee contribution to health care and etc.

Understanding the HMOS and PPOS

HMOs

A Health Maintenance Organization or HMO is a full fledged organization of healthcare providers. This includes the whole gamut of doctors, hospitals, and other health agencies that contract with insurances companies. They usually offer their services at a fixed price.

HMO plans are rather rigid and restrictive. They offer good care, but have many rules that must be followed. An insured person who is a member of an HMO, has to choose a primary care physician, who in turn manages all aspects of the person’s healthcare. Individuals are limited to choosing a physician who is a member of the HMO network. This primary care provider is the only physician who can refer the member to a specialist, if one is needed, and that specialist must be part of the network as well.

Small businesses often go with HMOs because they are cost effective. Premiums are lower than most plans.

PPOs

A Preferred Provider Organization, or PPO, is less rigid and restrictive. Because PPOs have contracts with the insurance companies, the member is allowed to watch any physician he or she likes, but if the physician is not part of the PPO network, the member will probably pay more out of pocket costs. The whole premium isn’t covered. Unlike an HMO, you do not need a referral to observe a specialist.

Although PPOs cost more, they are often the preferred choice of many employees because there are fewer rules.

Self-Insurance, Another Option

There’s an option to small business health insurance called self-insuring where companies do not capture health insurance for their employees, but prefer full responsibility, through their company assets, to cover claims. If no claims are made during the year, the small business saves money, and can also provide rewards to employees with better health. Many small businesses are switching to this option, which also provide wellness programs to back people stop smoking, lose weight, and get into shape to decrease their chances of illness.

Of course, there are major risk factors involved with self-insuring. For example, if a program member employee, becomes ill and their health care expenses very high, the small business can run into major expenses it cannot cover. This is where a “stop loss” insurance company comes in. This gives the small business a safety net if claims are over a certain predetermined level.

Health Care Scams

Because small businesses are especially concerned with saving money, there are health care scam artists out there that target entrepreneurs. These companies use professional marketing techniques, brochures, selling points, and they may even pay microscopic claims, but when a large claim comes in, they refuse to pay, and often move. This is why it’s important for the miniature business owner to do his homework and only go with a company that has credibility and a track record.

Having the right keywords in your blogs, articles or websites can increase the money you make through pay-per-click advertising.

The number of dollars before each keyword is not what you will take home for each click, but rather it is what an advertiser is willing to pay for a click with these keywords.

250 High Paying Google Adsense Keywords:

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These are the ways to choose a vehicle that will find you the best price:

1. I will agree with most of them here and say you must do your research. Decide what kind of vehicle you are looking for and do your research on this vehicle. Kelley Blue Book is a good GUIDE but nothing more. Far too often, people assume that this is the absolute truth when it comes to what a vehicle is worth. If it were that easy, why even have dealers, auctions or anything to do with selling cars?

Salespeople are not scared if you know what kind of vehicle you want. It makes their job a miniature easier. We would rather have someone come in that knows what they want instead of that customer who is “just looking”. If you do come in without really knowing what you want to steal you will not procure screwed everytime. Most of the time you will go home without buying because you really do not know what you want. Hopefully, the salesperson will take the time with you so when you do choose you will arrive back to see them. If you know what vehicle you want and have visited Edmunds.com, please make sure the car you want has the same options as the one you looked up. But please, do some research before to protect yourself from the very few “bad” dealers.

2. Don’t come in the dealership with a chip on your shoulder. There is no need to reach into a dealership and commence berating the salesperson. Most salespeople work more than 60 hours a week. If you treat them with respect they will return the favor and most the time will work with you to try and get you a better deal. Remember, they do not make ANY money unless you win. Treating them like a second class citizen will not help you buy a vehicle. Again, if you know all about the vehicle and are equipped with the information that helps you pick a vehicle, the better any GOOD salesperson likes it.

3. No matter where you shop, the best time to get a good deal is at the demolish of the month. This is also true with car dealerships. If the salesperson gets a bonus for selling X amount of cars and he/she is 1 car away, wouldn’t you mediate they will work harder to get you a minute better deal? Why shouldn’t they? And these bonuses are usually not in the thousands of dollars but in the few hundreds. However, what good dealership would allow their Sales Managers to lose money on a vehicle so the Sales Manager can receive a bonus. Believe me, that Sales Manager will not last long.

KEEP IN MIND – Most rebates end on the last day of the month and dealers do not know what the next incentive will be until the following day. You kind of have to gamble here and decide if you want to wait one more day or buy the car now.

4. Sale people Spiffs – There are times throughout the month where the Manufacturer or the dealership will put a “spiff” or a bonus on positive vehicles. It doesn’t happen everyday and 90% of the time it is from the Manufacturer. It usually takes 6-8 weeks for the salesperson to procure his check from the manufacturer. You also must remember that they do not take any taxes out of these checks so the salesperson gets a 1099 tax effect at the end of the year. I have read an article in here that says you should ask to split that bonus with the salesperson so that you will buy the vehicle. How in the world are you going to do that? He/She is going to pay you on something that they haven’t even received yet? Should they deduct the taxes before they split it with you?

Let’s get serious here for a miniature. As I mentioned earlier, an average salesperson will work around 60 hours a week if not more. Lets say you are the only person they sold all week. Keep in mind that they work on a commission basis and only make money if they sell vehicles. Getting encourage to the one car for the week, most minimum commissions are $100.00. Lets say the bonus from the manufacturer is $250.00. Therefore, they made a total of $350.00 on you and for the week. I am no mathematician but $350.00 dollars for that week divided by 60 hours equals $5.83/hour. Would you work for that? I believe not. To ask a salesperson to split something that really has no bearing on the deal you are getting is ludicrous and you may be asked to leave the dealership. When you shop at a department store do you ask the associate that helped you to split whatever they are making? Give me a crash.

5. You should know what your credit rating is before purchasing anything, not impartial vehicles. Depending on what state you are in, it is alright for the dealership to point to you your rating. They should not invent copies and give it to you but they can show it to you while you are in the Finance Office. It is true that the Finance Office can make a little money on the rate but the banks have put a ceiling on what they can charge. There are no tricky ways (if you are a reputable dealer) to scare someone about their rating. Especially when you can ask to search for it.

6. Test Drive – You should always retract a test drive before buying a vehicle. Any salesperson that does not offer you a test drive will not last long in the car business. All salespeople are required by the insurance company that is writing the dealerships policy to go on the test drive with the customer. You should go on a test drive that is anywhere from 10-15 minutes long. That way you can find out how the seat hits your legs, arms and support. You can’t do that on a 5 minute test drive. There are times that you might be able to take the car overnight. The only thing you must do is sign a form that says your insurance company will pay for any accidents if they should occur. A true test drive starts out with the salesperson driving so he/she can justify all of the options that this particular vehicle has. Half way through the test drive, you should drive so you can feel how the vehicle responds to you. The salespeople are taught to be very quiet as to not disturb you from your driving. So this would be the time that you can ask any and all questions you might have.

Remember that through all of this, if you have a good salesperson, he/she will want you to ask questions so they can overcome any objections you may have or to suggest a different car or different options.

7. If you should happen to near into the dealership with a copy of an invoice for the car, again, make sure that the car you are prepared to remove has the same options as the one you printed out. Most dealerships do not mind selling a vehicle for a few hundred dollars over invoice if it is a vehicle that they have in stock. But before you go offering X amount of dollars over or even under invoice, let me turn the table a miniature bit here. Lets say I asked you to give me $30,000 dollars. I told you I would invest it for you and at the end of 60 days I would give you back your $30,000 plus another $300.00. Would you consider that to be a good deal? I THINK NOT! Being that the average vehicle has an invoice of $30,000 and the dealerships have them an average of 60 days (all the while paying a floor plan interest), a $300 profit is not that tantalizing. Especially when the dealership is giving $100.00 of that the salesperson. Now the dealers do have what they call Holdback that they receive from the manufacturers but that only comes every quarter of the year. It usually is right around 3% of the invoice. Should not be a big issue.

8. Trade-Ins – Most of the time a person will have a vehicle to trade in. You should also do research on your vehicle to see what it is worth. Kelley Blue Book, again, is a good guide, but not the answer. Reason being is that most people are not honest with the condition of their vehicle and do not deduct for minor scratches and scrapes. You should also look at the trade-in value and not the private resell or retail values. If you make your best deal and then throw in a trade, quiz to receive ACV (Actual Cash Value) or wholesale for yours. You cannot buy the dealerships vehicle for invoice and then inquire to get retail for yours. It just will not happen. Also keep in mind that in most states, you are paying taxes on the DIFFERENCE between the new vehicle and the trade in. For example, if the current car is $30,000 and your trade is worth $10,000, you are paying taxes on $20,000.
Be honest with yourself about the condition of your vehicle and what the correct worth is. We hear all the time about dealerships not telling the truth about what may or may not be wrong with a vehicle. At the same time, how many people do you know that have bragged because they sold a piece of junk to a dealership by fixing something up or not really telling the truth about what may be base with the vehicle. Why does the truth only have to hasten one method?

9. Once you and the sale person have reached an agreement on all the figures, it will be time for you to go into the Finance Office to sign the paperwork. If you are sitting in front of a excellent Finance Manager, he/she should go over all the options you can add on to the vehicle. By options I mean, Extended Warranties, Bank Rates, Service Visits, etc. They would not be doing you a favor if they did not go over everything with you. If you do not understand a document that they are asking you to stamp by all means have them explain it to you. Keep in mind, that everything they go over with you is optional and you have the factual to say no to any or all of them. You should also go over at this point any items that the salesperson said they would “throw in”. This should also be in writing. If you were promised pinstripes and could not make it back for a week but the salesperson left the dealership since then, this allotment of paper would back you up to the fact that it was promised to you. You should receive copies of most of the paperwork but again you can request to have copies of all the paperwork that you have signed.

10. Once you are done with the Finance Manager, the salesperson should take the time to go over all the options on the car, go over the warranty booklet, take you on a orientation drive, have you visit the Service Department (where you should actually make your first oil change appointment) and take the time to encourage you activate your XM Radio and OnStar (if your vehicle is equipped with them). You should also make distinct that the vehicle is free from any defects and it is cleaned to your liking. The gas tank should be full and if it is not it should be brought up true then. Any salesperson who tries to steal YOUR gas ticket should be fired on the spot.

11. The dealership should be a dealership that has a good reputation and been in the community for several years. Do they belong to the Chamber of Commerce? Are they active in their community? Do they sponsor any businesses or sporting teams? Check with your neighbors, friends, co-workers, or anyone else to see if they have had any dealings with the dealership. If any draw possible try to buy from a dealership that is in the same neighborhood that you live in. Don’t go outside the site to save a couple hundred dollars.

So keep these in mind the next time you need to visit a dealership to buy a vehicle:

BE PREPARED – by doing your homework

BE NICE – You do not need nor should you be mean to the salesperson. They are the one that is ultimately going to decide how hard they will work for you.

GO AT THE END OF THE MONTH – You will ALWAYS get a better deal then

KNOW YOUR CREDIT RATING – Also know what kind of payment you can afford and what percentage you should pay.
TEST DRIVE – ALWAYS test drive any vehicle you are thinking of buying

TRADE – INS – Do your homework and give your car an Unprejudiced evaluation. Observe at Trade-in values

FINANCE – Listen to the Finance Manager to determine if you need any added coverage for you and your vehicle

PROMISES – Get any promise that the salesperson made you in writing

ORIENTATION – Remove an orientation drive as well as be shown where the service department is and meet the Service Manager

SURVEY – Every car manufacturer sends a survey once you have bought a vehicle. Manufacture sure to give the salesperson a Completely Gay on this survey. If you feel you cannot do this, call the salesperson to account for why and to see if there is something that he/she can do to correct any site.

The best deal is not always the person who got the best price but the person who got a pleasant price with excellent service afterwords.

A unusual study which is going to be released by Marshall & Swift/Boeckh LLC, states that 58% of houses are actually undervalued for insurance purposes, and that the average homeowner has enough insurance to rebuild 80% of their home. This means that the values on insurance policies for homes are less than what the staunch home would take to rebuild, so if a disaster were to happen, the family would be in quite a bit of trouble.

How is this happening? Part of it is because insurance companies are cutting the types of disasters that they cover. Farmers Insurance is reducing the wind damage cover they have in costal regions and Allstate is cutting earthquake damage in many states. Perhaps the biggest part of the trend comes from the virtual elimination of “replacement cost insurance”, which essentially meant that even if the policy was for less than the amount of money it would hold to replace the home, the insurance company would still pay the full sum of money that it cost rebuild the home. Since these policies proved to be too costly with booming home prices, companies eliminated them largely and instead pay the face value.

So what can you do to make positive you have enough insurance? Look for a policy which has an option to have “Extra value insurance” which will usually pay a fixed percentage higher than the value of your home on the insurance agreement if it is worth that. This might cost you a few extra dollars but will put you tens of thousands of dollars if something should ever happen to your home. Read your policy each and every year to see if something has changed significantly that you need to know about. Finally, make sure you have enough insurance to rebuild your home as it is and replace your personal possessions. You can have a simple appraisal done on your home to get its value, and then add up the amount of your assets to calculate this number.

When the buyer purchases a new auto or used auto there is always a difference between the Insurance companies idea of what that automobile is worth and what you owe on the loan. Even a unusual automobile depreciates the limited you drive away from the car lot.

Most Insurance carriers calculate the value of your automobile by the Kelly Blue Book and considerations of any additions to the car and what those add to the value of that automobile. The problem here lies with the purchaser/owner of that automobile.

If the loan on the auto is for more than the Insurance companies final decision on it’s value then the owner is held responsibility by the lender to pay the balance of that loan. This is where your GAP Insurance comes into play. GAP Insurance pays that difference. You the purchaser/owner is left with no outstanding balance on the auto loan.

The cost of GAP Insurance is actually quite reasonable if you consider the odds that you may be interested in an auto accident that would make the auto classified as a total loss.

Some of the lending agencies such as Toyota Motor Corp., GMC, US Bank, and many others will offer GAP insurance at the time of purchase. If this is not offered then there are several well- known insurance carriers such as Esurance, State Farm, Farmers and many others that offer it included in your auto insurance plan for what is a minimal cost. The trace tag on GAP Insurance can be as little as $10.95 a month depending on what insurance carrier chosen.

If you ever find that you are in this situation and you need to use your GAP Insurance it can be a godsend. If an accident occurs and the auto insurance company deems your car a total loss, contact your GAP Insurance and file the claim per their requirements and let them take over the case. Contact your lender and let them know that you have GAP Insurance on the automobile, give the lender the insurance company name, address and phone number and let the two companies work the issues out between them. Nothing more need be done by the auto owner unless there are complications between the lender and the insurance carrier.

GAP Insurance is clearly peace of mind for a novel or customary car owner with a loan on their automobile.